Montag, 27. März 2017

The big step from 8A to 8B/+

So it is finally done. It`s such a great and strange feelling to finish a long term project! After trying so hard for so long I´m just super happy now!

The first time I saw the boulder was many years ago when I just started climbing. I went there with the guys and never would have dreamed of to climb that boulder one day.

In 2014 I was looking for a project at home and something to train outside. I thought it would be cool to have a boulder with hard moves on which you can train a bit in the winter time. I always prefer climbing outside than go to a gym to train there. I`m just more motivated outside than in a noisy and dusty gym.
So I went there with a friend the first time but everything was wet and I wasn`t able to do a move. But it was ok for me because I had no expectations. The second time I went to the boulder was with Matti and I tried the moves and everything was dry at that time. After a short time I did all the moves and I made a go and did it. That was really funny and unexpected. After sending the second part my project to train in was gone and I needed something new so I thought I could try the first part what is maybe 8A+. And after sending the second part in almost one day I thought 8A+ could be possible..hihi.
That was maybe a bit too optimistic:) I really wasn`t able to do a single move! The moves were so big and powerful and just really not my style! Alone the first move is super long to a small open crimp. After that you have to do a toehook and go into an undercut which is pretty small too, then you release the toehook and have to hold the big swing with the undercut and the open crimp. That was for sooo long the moves I just was to weak for. So I trained more and recreated the boulder in our home gym. After 2 years I was finally able to do the moves but there was still the problem of putting part1 and part2 together. The hole boulder has got 15 moves and a final jump.

The last 2 months the weather was so good and dry that it was possible for me to really focus on it. During the last weeks the hole thing changed from a physical to a mental problem. I knew that I was able to do it now but I fell so much times 3 moves before the end. I got really bad back pain because of the long moves I think. The nights began to be pretty long and sleepless and I was almost on the point to give up.
Last friday I then I gave me a last chance to do it and I did it:) Matti and I went up to the boulder I warmed up a bit and just did it in the first go. That was really cool and strange at once :)

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